French chef Roger Vergé seems larger than life as he admits to an enormous capacity for eating in the introduction to his book, Roger Verge’s Entertaining in the French Style (1986). “Some of these menus may strike you as overabundant, but they are scaled to my own appetite, which is not small,” he writes.Fortunately for his waistline, Vergé was a proponent of nouvelle cuisine, which was a lot lighter than the cream-and butter-laden dishes of haute cuisine (Vergé died of complications from…



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