The scene is straight out of a Dutch oil painting from Bali’s colonial era. Children splash in a clear stream that meanders through a verdant jungle, the cone of a distant volcano visible through gaps in the palm trees, coconuts dangling in a light breeze.
In the century that has passed, this once-remote tropical island has metamorphosed into one of the top travel destinations on Earth. In 2019, 16 million people chose to holiday in Bali. They came for the sand and the surf, the Hindu customs…



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