KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 12 — Tucked away in Bangsar’s Lucky Garden is Wurst, Chef Logan Terence Lopez’s charming little spot serving up classic European fare with an emphasis on artisan sausages which are made in-house.
The place may be small but it’s big in flavours with a cosy vibe from large, colourful murals.
Lopez previously worked under Jochen Kern at Chalet in the Equatorial Hotel, a place that served European classics, which those more senior among us will likely remember well.
At Wurst, you can find his proficiency with the classics peppered all over the menu.
The roasted bone marrow is luxurious on the tongue; slippery, gelatinous and brilliant with just a bit of salt and crusty bread.
It also features a bordelaise sauce that is decidedly rich in flavour. At RM38 for two pieces, it is an indulgence that won’t necessarily break the bank.
One bite of this Scottish national dish and you will relate to the Robert Burns poem ‘Address to a Haggis.’
Perhaps my favourite dish of the night, the air-flown hanger steak (RM49 for 250 grams) from Uruguay underlines not only Lopez’s expertise in classic European cuisine, but also his inclination towards underrated gems as opposed to pricey prime cuts.
Characteristic of the hanger cut, the steak was bursting with flavour, with a satisfying chew that never felt tough.
The red wine jus, peppercorn sauce and Pommery mustard served on the side, made for a wonderful medley of savoury, creamy, peppery and slightly spicy notes to enhance the steak.
Using Sarawak white pepper for the peppercorn sauce made for a much milder, more floral experience than a traditional peppercorn sauce. Currently, it is a special but there are plans to keep it on the menu for the future.
On the topic of specials, I couldn’t pass up on the haggis.
The farmer’s beef sausage is full of herbs, giving it a more complex flavour profile (left). You really can’t get better value for money than with hanger steak as it’s cheaper than prime cuts and way more flavourful (right).
Just like the sausages, this Scottish speciality is made in-house and served with mashed turnips and potatoes or what is known to the Scots as “neeps and tatties.”
A dish made from sheep offal, onions, spices and barley, it’s beautifully balanced without the off-tasting experience one might expect. This is a real treat, hard to find in our part of the world and I can’t recommend it enough.
The sausages, humble and unassuming as they are, also taste a lot better than they look.
Served with house-made Bavarian-style sauerkraut, the farmer’s beef (RM45 for 250 grams) has a satisfying snap to each bite and the meat isn’t unrecognisably uniform.
Instead, little pockets of fat and flavour are found throughout, giving it a really rustic feel in the mouth.
A change is coming to Wurst, however. From February 18 onwards, it will expand its meat offerings, becoming more of a deli cum restaurant.
Look for the signage or the loose congregation of potted plants and you’ll spot the place at Bangsar’s Lucky Garden.
Most of the dishes mentioned here will be retained, with additions like mutton chop and Iberico pork coming to the menu.
Customers will be able to come in and choose steaks, chops or sausages to be cooked to order, or simply buy them to bring home.
Wurst, 15-G, Persiaran Ara Kiri, Lucky Garden, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur.
Currently: Monday closed. Tuesday-Friday: 3pm-late, Sat & Sun: 12 noon-late. New operating hours from Feb 18: Monday to Friday: 3pm-late, Sat & Sun: 12 noon-late.
Tel: +603-22010609. Facebook:@wurstkl/ Instagram: @wurst.kl
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