PETALING JAYA, June 7 — If you ever had the pleasure of viewing a classical Chinese triptych, the sort that is more painting than calligraphy, then you might be dazzled by how the confident brushstrokes transition from a lotus flower in one panel to an elegant crane in mid-flight the next, before settling down to a cloud-covered mountaintop.
That is in effect what it feels like — in some miniaturised, soft focus version — when our server brings a platter of “Three Treasures” to our table.
The Cantonese style starter course features crispy dragon beard rolls on the outer rim, a pani puri like presentation of scallop salad resting on a bed of dried adzuki beans and, best of all, scarlet lychee prawn balls dangling from a faux bonsai tree.
We are having lunch at Noble Mansion, one of the many outlets under The Oriental Group of Restaurants that specialises in Modern Chinese Cuisine. It is that time of year when we are barely a month away from Duen Ng Jit (“Double Fifth Festival” in Cantonese) or better known as the Dragon Boat Festival.
Time for zung or zhang or zòngzi — those sticky rice dumplings that harken to the warmth of family gatherings. This year the team of chefs at The Oriental Group of Restaurants has curated an array of Chef Recommended dishes — made of old favourites and new dishes — that are suitable for the Dragon Boat Festival.
Their rice dumpling is a classic; through the years the chefs have maintained the quality and this has become a much-loved item customers look forward to every year.
Chef Roy Yam (left) and Chef Alex Chong (right) present The Oriental Group of Restaurants’ new Chef Recommended dish. — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
The rice dumpling is stuffed with Japanese dried scallops, Bai Ling (or longevity) mushrooms, dried oysters and dried shrimps, pork and mung beans, lotus seeds and chestnuts, and the sheer decadence of not one, but two salted egg yolks.
I decide to venture into the kitchen. Wouldn’t it be interesting to find out how our food was made? To go behind the scenes to see how the chefs conjure up dish after dish?
The Oriental Group of Restaurants’ premium rice dumpling stuffed with Japanese dried scallops and two salted egg yolks. — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
Iberico pork ribs wrapped in banana leaves and flavoured with ‘bunga kantan’ (torch ginger flowers). — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
There are over a dozen cooks, each with their own stations. Servers wait patiently at the pass, ready to transport every dish to the tables outside once the chefs are done with their deft cooking.
Indeed, to witness Chef Alex Chong demonstrate how proper wok hei is achieved is a stunning performance in itself. He says, “I have been working with this Group for 13 years now and I’m still learning new things about Cantonese cuisine.”
Chef Chong demonstrated how ‘wok hei ‘ is achieved. — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
And out of all this practised bustle, Chef Chong readies a twist on a crowd favourite. He shares, “This is one of our signature dishes — Iberico pork ribs. Our regulars keep coming back for it.”
The Dragon Boat Festival is the perfect time for family and friends to gather and try the Chef Recommended menu featuring the jazzed up Iberico pork ribs wrapped in banana leaves and infused with the delightful flavour of bunga kantan (torch ginger flowers).
We might be more familiar with the taste of bunga kantan in local dishes such as nasi ulam or asam laksa, but it works wonders here too. This tropical bloom is equal parts floral and zesty, which makes its flavour and fragrance so distinctive when paired with the Spanish pork.
Deep-fried cod fish stuffed with prawn paste in golden broth (left) and a bird’s nest lemongrass infusion with basil seeds and mixed fruits (right). — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
Other chef specialties include deep-fried cod fish stuffed with prawn paste in golden broth, the latter made from carrot and whipping cream, before being topped with truffle oil; and a lightly chilled bird’s nest lemongrass infusion with basil seeds and mixed fruits.
East meets West with this garlic fried rice topped with a rich slab of ‘foie gras.’ — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
Chef Yam putting final touches to the plating at the pass. — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
The restaurants in The Oriental Group of Restaurants lean keenly into what they consider contemporary Cantonese cuisine. Classic enough but never boring. Not fusion, but not too predictable either.
Back in the kitchen, Chef Yam is at the pass, putting final touches to the plating of another of their Chef Recommended dishes, a delicate large prawn salad.
Light and refreshing: The delicate large prawn salad. — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa
As I return to my seat, I have renewed appreciation for the dishes that come out like clockwork. The attention to detail, the craft and the care.
The fan of thinly sliced prawns ― cooked but known as “tartare” in Cantonese cuisine ― crowning a stack of diced strawberries, honeydew melon and mango tells about a passion for food.
Learn more about The Oriental Group of Restaurants’ Chef Recommended Menu and the Dragon Boat Festival rice dumplings (available now till July 31, 2023) at orientalrestaurants.com.my
