PETALING JAYA, March 21 — Section 19 is now home to New Ocean World Fine Food City, an ambitious project that bills itself as an “all-encompassing lifestyle food mall”.
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Presently, five out of the six restaurants on the first level are open, with the last remaining outlet scheduled to open later in 2024.
Additionally, four more restaurants are slated to open on the third level, along with a large banquet-style restaurant on the fourth level.
The options on the first level include a Japanese-inspired cafe serving coffee and pastries, a pastel pink Vietnamese dessert bar, a place specialising in Shunde ginger milk curd, another offering matcha and h?jicha drinks and desserts, and The Golden Time, which specializes in Hong Kong-style wonton noodles.
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The restaurant is to the left of the entrance (if you’re facing away from the building), next to Hua Xin Dessert.
The interior at The Golden Time.
This is important because it can only be accessed from the outside, which is likely what enables it to open at 7am, long before the rest of the building does at 10am.
Take note: The parking in this building uses a rather newfangled automated system, though the jury is still out on how it will respond to rush hour traffic.
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Getting here is relatively easy for now, though the restaurant starts filling up with people from neighbouring offices at lunchtime.
The front of the restaurant.
Unlike the Malaysian iteration of wonton noodles, char siu does not feature in this Hong Kong version.
Hong Kong-style wonton noodles are all about the wontons — traditionally a mixture of shrimp and pork — and a bunch of perfectly “QQ”, springy noodles in a clear broth that uses dried flounder as the base.
As The Golden Time is a pork-free establishment, you have a choice between shrimp and chicken wonton.
The Golden Time Signature Fresh Prawn Wonton Noodles (RM16.80) came with four wontons, each thinly wrapped and full of fresh prawn meat for a satisfying snap.
The thin noodles were exactly al dente, and the broth was teeming with that deeply savoury flavour characteristic of dried seafood.
Ginger and Scallion noodles come with two ‘sui kow’ and a bright and aromatic ginger and scallion paste.
For something less soupy, try the Ginger and Scallion Noodles with Dumpling Wonton (RM16.80).
Instead of four wontons, you get a pair of sui kow and a dollop of ginger and scallion paste on top of your noodles, with soup on the side.
Eaten without soup, the toothsome quality of the noodles is somewhat accentuated, while the paste brings a bright and aromatic punch of warmth and sweetness.
True to Hong Kong-style ‘zhajiangmian’, Bamboo Dynasty Spicy Zha Jiang Noodles look and taste a little ketchup-y.
I was less impressed by the Bamboo Dynasty Spicy Zha Jiang Noodles (RM12.80), though it was pretty faithful to the Hong Kong version of this Shandong classic.
As is customary in Hong Kong, ketchup and chilli sauce feature in the zhajiang sauce, imparting a sweet and slightly spicy flavour to the overall dish that I’m not a fan of, though the combination might work for others.
Available as both a choice of topping and a side dish, Beef Stew (RM18.80) is a substantial helping of brisket and tendon braised to the verge of collapsing.
Melt-in-your-mouth tender Beef Stew is an excellent side dish.
The structural integrity of both has been pushed to the very limit, with the tendons in particular rendered a soft, gelatinous mess of collagen.
They were a real highlight of the meal and may just inspire a repeat visit, all on their own merit.
The Golden Time
L1 – 05, Level 1, New Ocean World Fine Food City, 15, Jalan 19/1, Seksyen 19, Petaling Jaya
Open daily, 7am-11pm
Tel: 03-7954 8863
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
*Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
